Machine for finishing bottoms of trousers.



" No. 699,3l6. Patented May 6, mm. w. HELLER.

MACHINE FOR FINISHING BOTTOMS 0F TROUSERS.

(Appliation filed Sept. 16, 1901.

(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Shut I.

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W. HELLER. MACHINE FOR FINISHING BOTTOMS 0F TROUSERS.

(Application filed Sept (No Model.)

4 Sheets8heet 3.

N0. 699,3I6. Patented May 6, I902.

W. HELLER.

MACHINE FOR FINISHING BOTTOMS 0F TROUSERS.

(Appliciation filed Sept. 16, 1901.)

W y I V 1 l i o @fiezys THE Noam: PEYFRS cov Pumoumo" WASHING-HAN, u. 1,

Miran States PATENT Fries.

WILLIAM HELLER, OF SAVANNA, ILLINOIS.

MACHINE FOR FINISHING BOTTOMS OF TROUSERS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 699,316, dated May 6, 1902. Application filed September 16, 1901. Serial No. 75,587. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM HELLER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Sa- Vanna, in the county of Carroll and State of Illinois, have invented a new and useful Machine for Turning Up and Fastening the Bottoms of Trousers and the Like, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a machine for turning and fastening the hem at the bottoms of trousers and the like and for creasing trousers-legs and pressing the bottoms of trousers,

and the object of the same is to provide simple and effective means in the form of a wellorganized machine wherein the parts are intimately disposed for the purpose of performing the several operations stated, and thereby quicken the accomplishment of the same and avoid the slow work usually performed by hand, and whereby the cost of manufacture of trousers is materially decreased and the output or quantity increased within the same time heretofore manually consumed in arriving at a like result.

The invention consists in the construction, combination, and general organization of the several parts of the machine as a whole and in detail as well as subcombinations, which will be more fully hereinafter described and claimed and subject to a wide range of modivfication in the form, size, proportions, and

minor details without departing from the principle of the invention.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective view of a machine embodying the features of the invention. Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the same, showing a part of the mechanism opened. Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the ma chine. Fig. 4 is an end elevation of the same, showing a part of the device broken away. Fig. 5 is a detail perspective view of a part of the machine. Fig. 6 is a detail sectional View showing a modification in the feed guide or throat for the cementing-strip. Fig. '7 is a detail sectional view through the ironingroll with the burner applied thereto.

Similar numerals of reference are employed to indicate corresponding parts in the several views.

The numeral 1 designates a base from which rises a standard 2. In the upper end of the standard is formed a horizontal bearing 3, in

which a drive-shaft 4 is mounted, having at one end an operating crank-handle 5 and at the opposite end a bevel-pinion G. The shaft t may be operated by hand, as shown, or a suitable power-wheel may be substituted for the crank-handle 5, and a plurality of the machines may be regularly disposed in a large factory so that they may be driven from a common source and have belting under the control of the several operators of the same, so that they may be individually started and stopped at will. The general organization of the machine is of such simple nature that it can be easily operated by hand and is thus adapted for individual use in small tailoring establishments. At the upper portion of the working end of the standard 2 is a vertical bearing 7, in which a shaft 8 is rotatably suspended and has a bevel-gear 9 on the upper end, which is held in continual mesh with the pinion 6, and on the lower extremity of the said shaft is a vertically-disposed hollow ironing-roll 10, having a completely open lower end 11 and an upper perforated end 12 for ventilating purposes. On the shaft 8 above the upper end of the irohing-roll is a spur-gear 13 for transmitting motion from the shaft 6 to pressing devices, which will now be described.

Extending rearwardly from the bearing 7 are a pair of arms 14:, between whicha horizontally-movable lever 15 is intermediately fulcrumed, the inner end of said lever having a bearing pin or projection 16 therein and the outer end provided with a vertical bearing 17, in which a suspended post 18 is movably mounted and secured at its lower end to a horizontally-disposed suspending-head 19. From the lower portion of the opposite extremities of the said head 19 a pair of pressing-rolls 2O depend and are free to rotate, the said pressing-rolls being covered with suitable fabric, and each has at its upper end a spur-pinion 21, adapted to mesh with the gear 13 on the shaft 8. The lever 15 has its inner extremity normally drawn inwardly toward the standard 2 by a spring 22, secured thereto and to an adjacent portion of said standard, and hence the pressing-rolls 20 are normally thrown outwardly away from the ironing-roll 10, and the adjustment of the lever 15 from the normal position set forth is made against the resistance set up by the said spring, and thus the pressing-rolls will automatically move outwardly from the ironing-roll when they are free to do so. On the rear side of the upper portion of the standard 2 are a pair of vertically-alined bearing lugs 23 to receive a vertically-disposed cam-shaft 24, having a cam 25 thereon between the said lugs, which is normally in contact with the pin or projection 16. On the upper end of the shaft 24 is a handle 26, by means of which the said shaft is rotated to dispose the bearing-face of the cam in such position as to throw the inner extremity of the lever rearwardly from the standard 2, and thereby move the pressing-rolls 2O inwardly toward the ironing-roll 10. The cam 25 is of the usual snail form, and when the greatest projecting portion thereof is thrown rearwardly against the pin 16 the pressing-rolls will be thrown in as close as it is possible toward the ironing-roll but the adjustment of the pressing-rolls can be easily regulated with relation to theironin g-roll to accommodate different thicknesses of material passed between the rolls. When it is desired to permit the rolls 20 to move outwardly from the roll 10, the shaft 24 is turned in such manner as to ease the cam 25 off of the pin or projection 16.

The ironing-roll 10 may be heated by gas, gasolene, or other means, and to supply the fuel to a proper form of burner that is projected upwardly into the ironing-roll through the lower open end thereof a pipe 27 is run longitudinally through an intermediate portion of the standard, the latter having a bore 28 formed therein to receive the pipe, the latter being rotatable, as shown, in said bore for convenience in attaching the screw-threaded end thereof to the burner 29, disposed in the ironing-roll 10, and after said attachment has been made the pipe is held against movement by a set-screw 30, passing through the standard and bearing upon said pipe. The pipe 27 may extend away from the machine any desired or necessary distance, and the drawings show the said pipe as supplied with means for attaching a gas-conduit thereto and comprising a valve 31 and a tubular screw-stern 32, which is fitted into the outer end of a hollow spherical cap 33, attached to the end of the pipe 27, the said cap having a plurality of apertures 34, adjacent to the point where the screw-stem 32 engages the said cap, for the purpose of admitting air to the cap, the latter being hollow to provide a mixing-chamber, so that the gas entering the cap will be commingled with air for obvious reasons.

Projecting from the front side of the standard 2 is a ledge 35, havinga bolt 36 extending upwardly thorethrough to couple or attach a flange 37 of a support 38, which car ries the major portion of the front mechanisms to control the feed of the cementing and securing strip and the rest over which the trousers move when operated upon. To the front edge of the support 38 a box 39 is secured and has a removable cover 40, the said box being of circular form and having a central upwardly-extending post 41, with an upper screw-threaded end with which the said cover engages, the cover having a central tubular knob 42 secured thereto to turn on and off of the post. From the inner portion of the box and running parallel with the front edge of the support 38 is a feed guide or throat 43, having its free end 44 reduced and bent or curved rearwardly in the direction of the ironing-roll. This box and feed guide or throat are adapted to receive and direct the cementing'strip, which may be of rubber or other suitable material or combination of materialsadapted for the purpose of securing the hems of trousers ends. The said cementing-strip is wound about the post 4l of the box and is drawn through the feed guide or throat 43, and to accommodate different widths of hems corresponding changes in the width of the cementing-strips must necessarily ensue, and to make one box and feed guide or throat applicable for use with different widths of strips the box will be made primarily deep enough to permit the widest strip used to be disposed therein, and the sides 45 of said feed guide or throat will be made adj ustable in a vertical direction, as will be hereinafter set forth. The inner extremity of a rest 4G'is hinged to the support 38, the said rest being constructed of suitable sheet metal and bent in concavo-convex form, so as to close over the feed guide or throat 43 and shield the latter, as well as serve as an efficient means for guiding the trousers-legs or portions of the said legs being operated upon. The inner edge of the said rest is formed with a locking projection 47, adapted to spring into an opening 48 in a corresponding position in the said support 38, so as to prevent the rest from having a loose movement or tending to accidentally open when it is desired that it remain closed. The rest is also formed with a rearwardly-projecting finger 49, and at the opposite sides of the said finger the edge portions adjacent to said finger are cut away in curved lines to provide a clearance for portions of the trousers-leg ends engaging the same during the operation of securing the hems.

The free end 44 of the feed guide or throat 43 is directed toward a cutting attachment for the cementing-strip, the said cutting attachment being held by the support 38 and comprising a lower channeled guide 50, with an upstanding stationary cutter 51 at its outer end near the said end 44 of the feed-throat 43. WVithin the said guide 50 a reciprocable slide-bar 52 is mounted, (see Fig. 5,) and on its outer end is an upstanding cutter 53, which coacts with the cutter 51 to sever the cementing-strip, the latter being fed between the said cutters, which are normally open. The bar 52 has one end of a stiif spring 54 secured to the inner end thereof, the opposite end of said spring being attached to the adjacent portion of the support 38. The inner end of the bar 52 is also loosely engaged by the lower end of an upwardly-projecting shifting-lever 55, which is fulcrumed in the support 38, and by moving said shifting-lever to the right the said bar 52 is drawn inwardly and the cutter 53 moves into close engagement with the cutter 51.

On the upper portion of the standard 2 is a bearing projection 56, having a crank-shaft 57 therein, with an operating-handle 58 at tached to the inner end thereof. The crank or crank-arm 59 of the said shaft 57 is located at the outer end of the latter and thereto is movably secured the upper curved extremity of a depending connecting-rod 60, having a lower tubular screw-threaded extremity adjustably engaged by the upstanding member (51 of an intermediate rigid link 62, having its opposite depending member 63 terminally screw-threaded and fitted in the upwardlyprojecting stem 64 of a fulcrum-box 65, mv ably engaging the outwardly-projecting arm 66 of a crank 67, pivotally attached to the outer end of the support 38. To the outer end of the arm 66 a saddle 68 is secured and is adapted to be raised and lowered by correspondingly operating the shaft 57, the throw or movement of the saddle being regulated by adjusting the rigid link 62. WVhen the saddle is raised, its upper edge is inclined upwardly in a rearward direction, the said saddle standing in line with the free end at of the feed guide or throat 4:3 and also nearly in line with the surface of the outer portion of the ironingroll. When the saddle is let down, the ironing-roll will be cleared for general pressing purposes, such as creasing trousers or pressing the bottoms of the latter. The saddle is formed with a vertical groove 69, which extends therethrough from the front end to the rear end, the front portion of said groove being flared, so as to permit the cementing-strip to regularly and accurately feed therethrough.

The machine as thus far described is complete in its structure to facilitate the formation and securement of hems at the bottoms of trousers-legs and replaces the ordinary tedious manual methods pursued by finishers. In Fig. 6 the means for adjusting the sides of the feed guide or throat is clearly shown and consists, preferably, in making the said sides telescoping.

The trousers are first cut at the bottoms of the legs as may be desired or in accordance with a certain measurement, allowance being made for the hems. The depth of the hems may be indicated by any suitable means; but the simplest method is to mark the same with chalk, and after this preparation the trousers bottoms or hem portions are moistened with water. The saddle 68 having been elevated, the hem is started and bent over the saddle and drawn between the ironing and pressing rolls, the operator at the same time catching the cementing-strip projecting through the saddle, and when the bottom portion of the trousers-leg has thus been arranged the pressing-rolls are thrown inwardly toward the ironing-roll by the means heretofore explained to firmly hold the leg end or bottom against said ironing-roll. The operator then rotates the shaft 4, and through the gearing heretofore explained the rolls will be set in motion and the trousers-leg end will havethe hem regularly folded and secured, the heat of the ironing-roll setting up an adhesion between the parts of the ends by snfficiently softening the cementing'strip contained within the hem. This operationmay be rapidly carried on, and the time usually employed in manually hemming or turning up the bottoms of trousers-legs will be materially reduced and the expense and time employed in manufacturing trousers materially lessened. The machine can also be used for creasing trouserslegs, which are properly folded and run between the folds and 20, and likewise the bottoms of trousers may be pressed.

The rolls 10 and and the mechanism for supporting the same have been described as ar rangedin a vertical position; but it .will be understood that the said rollscould be disposed horizontally or at an angle and the coacting mechanism, including the saddle and means for feeding the cementing-strip, correspondingly changed in position. Byhinging the rest 46 the feed-guide or the cementing-strip is made accessible, so that it can be disposed in the said feed guide or throat therefor, and when the hems are formed in the trousers ends the finger 49 acts as a guide over which the hems are closely drawn and to start said hems evenly over the saddle, the finger also shielding the cementing-strip below the same, so that the hem may be formed in advance of the saddle without crushing down the said strip.

It will be understood thatthe cutting attachment is operated to sever the cementingstrip when the length of the hem has been completed or just previousto the final. securement of the same,and which will be controlled by the operator. The-cementingstrip which will be used by preference is what is known as rubber tissue.

WVhile trousers have been particularly. referred to with which the machine is designed to operate, it will be understood that any garment may be hemmed,and particularly skirts and the like.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new is- 1. In a machine of the class set forth, an ironing-roll, means for heating the same,.a

. pressing-roll, means for moving the same toward and from. the ironing-roll, a hemmingattachment, and means for feeding an adhesive strip into said hem.

2. In a machine of the class set forth, an ironing-roll, means for heating the same, a pressing-r011, a hemming attachment, and means for moving said hemming attachment into and out ofoperable relation to the rolls.

3. In a machine of the class set forth, an ironing-roll, means for heating the same, a pressing-roll having a covering of yielding material, means for moving the pressing-roll toward and from the ironing-roll, a hcmming attachment movable into and out of operable relation to the rolls, and means for guiding and feeding an adhesive strip into said hem.

4.. In a machine of the class set forth, ironing and pressing rolls, a movable hemming attachment, an adhesive-strip-feedin g means, and a severing device for the adhesive strip.

5. A machine of the class set forth, comprising ironing and pressing rolls, a hemming attachment movable into line with the said rolls and having a groove therein, and an adhesive-strip guiding and feeding means.

6. The combination with pressing and heating devices, ahemming attachment, means for feeding an adhesive strip to said hemming attachment, and a movable rest for covering a portion of the said means to protect the strip passing therethrough.

7. A machine of the class set forth, comprising heating and pressing devices, the pressing devices being adjustable in relation to the heating device, and an adjustable and movable hemming attachment.

8. In a machine of the class set forth, ironing and pressing devices, a hcmming attachment, an adhesive-strip-feeding means, and. severing means for said strip located between the feeding means and tho hcmming attachment.

9. A machine of the class set forth, comprising pressing and heating devices, a feedguide for an adhesive strip having a rearwardly-directed terminal, and means for severing the said strip located between the said terminal and the heating and pressing devices.

10. A machine of the class set forth, comprising vertically-disposed ironing and press ing rolls, a pivotally-mounted hcmming attachment, and means for efiecting the adjustment of the hcmming attachment as a whole longitudinally of the rolls, whereby the attachment may be held in operable relation to said rolls, or may be moved beyond the ends of the rolls, substantially as specified.

11. A machine of the class set forth, comprising heating and pressing devices, an elevatable and depressible hcmming attachment, means for feeding an adhesive strip, and severing devices for the adhesive striplocated in advance of the said hcmming attachment.

12. A machine of the class set forth, com prising heating and pressing devices, a hemming attachment, means for feeding an adhesive strip, and a movable rest having a finger projecting therefrom, the said rest and finger forming guard means for the adhesive strip.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own I have hereto afliXed my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

WILLIAM HELLER.

\Vitnesses:

E. O. SHOEMAKER, FRED GRAY. 

